Chris and Linda Italy 2025

 Another sunny start to the day although the forecast for the afternoon was not so promising. A perfect day for a bit of aimless wandering around and getting repeatedly lost in the charming streets, stairs and lanes of the Stassi.  All of that of course called for occasional  refreshment stops, first for cappuccini and cornetti and later, while the sun still was shining, limoncello spritzes: For lunch we found ourselves in a cave (a restaurant that had been recommended by our tour guide of the previous day):  Some light rain had started by the time we emerged from the cave so we headed back to our place - and made it just before some thundershowers moved in again.  Quiet rest of the afternoon but we have discovered there is a concert this evening at a jazz club about 50 m. from where we are staying.  

 On Thursday the morning dawned fine with sunny skies after heavy thundershowers overnight in Locorotondo.  Headed toward Matera on some very pleasant back roads and managed an early check in at our rental. Just managed to do a few logistical things when the skies darkened and very quickly thunderstorms began again.  Decided we would just shelter inside for the evening. Friday again dawned sunny so we headed out early for a hike we had read about that began at the edge of town to the Belvedere Murgia Timone. About a 30 minute walk from our digs into the Sassi (Districts - the ancient neighbourhoods with the cave housing etc.) to the starting point of the hike. A fine morning of sunshine with a fairly challenging walk through a canyon including a Tibet style swing bridge over the river. Finished the walk by mid-day and headed back to the apartment.  Stopped to pick up some bread for lunch and got the local specialty, Pane di Matera, described somewhere as "... a hulki...

Weather forecast called for heavy afternoon showers but the morning was reasonably nice.  Decided to drive to the Adriatic coast at Polignano a Mare.  Some quick research let us know that, among other things, this was the birthplace of Dominico Modugno and he was honored by a seafront statue.   The original and Dean Martin's cover Despite  this unfortunate past, actually a very charming seaside town with an interesting old centre along the coast.    Did manage to get lunch in before the rains came.  Birthday Girl - no candles in her pie! The heavy rains did set in and we had a wet drive back to Locorotondo.  Off to Matera tomorrow.

The weather held off fairly well today - gray but not rainy or windy.  Decided to visit some of the other towns of the Valle D'Itria.  First went to Martina Franca and made a visit to the Basilica di San Martino and wandered around the centro storico.  Moved on to Alberobello, home of the Trulli village, where we were joined by apparently every school child in Puglia on class outings.  After having had the other towns pretty much to ourselves we were a little overwhelmed but at least did manage a quick tour.     And we finally had to resort to Google to figure out what all of the hanging (and sometimes sitting) female figures were.   Quarantana, Puglia’s lugubrious old Lenten maid

 After a couple of weeks of fairly fine weather the inevitable has happened.  Sunday was a dreary, windy, showery day.  A perfect day to brave the challenges of an Italian laundromat.  Survived and once again have clean clothes.  A short drive to the coast but pretty much just hung out at our very comfortable digs.  Monday morning brought more of the same weather, including a wind warning.  We headed north from Salve past Brindisi and turned inland.  Stopped at Ostuni, The White City built on 3 hills and apparently inhabited since the Stone Age and rebuilt by the Greeks.  Made it up to the Duomo and then the rain started in earnest.  Beat a tactical retreat to the car. Headed to our destination for the day another hill town -  Locorotondo, name meaning "round place" for its hill top location.  The rain let up a bit late in the day and we at least had a little walk around the "centro istorico".   This is the area with ...

 Saturday was a cloudy, windy and somewhat cool day.  We had been spoiled by a run of good weather.  Tried to make the most of it. Got in the car and headed for Capo Santa Maria di Leuca pretty much the point farthest south on the heel and where the Ionian and Adriatic seas meet.   Some where behind this gentleman two seas are busy meeting! Back to our digs for lunch then took the provided bicycles for a short tour around the town and some back roads. Off for supper at an Agritourismo recommended by our host.  Serving pretty much all organic products from their farm - amazing meal.    

 Made it all the way down to the bottom of the heel on Thursday.  A great drive, mostly on small country roads through olive groves and vineyards.  Arrive at our digs in Salve, got settled, supplied and oriented.  Friday hit the road for a little touring.  Checked out the weekly market at a neighbouring town and then headed to the Adriatic coast.  Amazing coastal drive on tiny winding roads.     Managed to stop for lunch in the village of Tricase Porto and of course had to check out the seafood on offer.   After that lunch, a quiet night in store for us!

Musical Interlude   Just stayed around our digs in Fiumifreddo for much of Monday enjoying another sunny warm day and the area around us.  Did manage a drive down the coast, had a nice beach walk and headedto a nearby fishing village for lunch:   Octopus and Squid   Tuesday we set out at a good time for the ferry from Messina to Villa San Giovanni on the mainland.  A day with several hours driving.  Made it to the town of Castrovillari where we spent the night.  Surprisingly, managed to find a bite to eat there as well.    Pizzas for two   On the road again on Wednesday.  Made it to our planned stop at Lido Bruno just east of Taranto by early afternoon.  At least found a bit of a coastal path to stretch our legs.  On to Salve and the heel of the boot tomorrow (and the last of the long drives for a while!)  

   Etna from our rental We joined 6 others and our guide/driver Salvatore for a full day tour around the eternal Mount Etna. Our first stop was at 1000 metres, the lowest point where lava flowed in the big 1992 eruption.Etna's height grows with each eruption and is now somewhere around 3400 metres at the summit. On Etna it takes 200 years for the first life, moss, to begin and a full 600 years for the first plant, a member of the chamomile family, to take hold. Amazing, eh?                                                                                          At the lava face  Our next stop was at about 1700 metres at one of the larger craters on the north face of Etna. Soil, gravel, everything is still black ...

 Drove north up the east coast of Sicily to reach the agritourismo place we had booked in Fiumefreddo.  It is an amazing rural place with lots of outdoor areas.  As it was sunny and the car had it as warm as 24 degrees we declared it yet another rest day!  A bit of a picnic lunch on the terrace and then some quality time with a book and the sunshine!   But we have booked a guided tour on Mount Etna for tomorrow!  

 Left Noto and headed for Ortigia, an island connected to the city of Siracusa by bridge.  Checked into our B&B and then roamed around the town.   Found lunch at the street market. Explored around the Duomo (Cathedral).   Just down the piazza found a Carravaggio:   Then ran into an Island connection on the seawall:  

 Apparently when you reach a certain age you can't just keep going all the time.  Took today to pretty much rest up and enjoy the amazing terrace that is part of our rental here in Noto.   We did manage to roust ourselves for a little walk around Noto and get a bit of business attended to.  Had pasta alla Norma (the eastern Sicily specialty) for lunch and then just wandered for a bit.  An earthquake in 1693 pretty much flattened the city which was rebuilt in the Baroque style of the 18th century.